When was the last time we spoke? It really does seem like an age has passed since I last wrote or updated the blog. I know it's only been a week or so since I left Yamba but trekking 'into the wild' this passed week has almost erased any awareness of dates, days or times. Free from the burdens and monotony of life back home, the isolation coupled with my rather intense focus on getting to where I'm going, it has been very difficult to keep track of these measures of time. In my fortunate situation there really is no need. As the birds stir so do I. As they set about their daily chores so I set about preparing for my walk. Up and at em' around 3am packing and preparing I'm on the sand by sunrise. As the sun sets I'm bedding down. Life on the road is simple. As long as I complete my duties by nightfall I'm satisfied. It's an admission I'm a little embarrassed to make but my date and time amnesia has become so bad I even forgot my mum's birthday on the 16th. Sorry Mum. Happy Birthday! Hope you had a great day.
So even though it's only been a week that has passed. So much has happened and there's so much to tell. Unfortunately my SD card from the camera died today so I can't share any of my photos with you. I'll try to keep my rambling as concise as possible so as not to bore you with my trials and tribulations.
Yamba to Red Cliff / Grey Cliff:
Despite being tempted to leave Yamba on Sunday the 12th as scheduled I was very glad to stay a few days longer and wait out the storm. As you most likely heard, a tornado ripped through the village of Red Rock and over 400mm of rain fell in many parts where I had planned to walk. Even though I postponed my departure, the Yuraygir track was still very wet. The downpour caused several landslips and many parts of the track had completely disappeared. On steep, heavily wooded hillsides, the landslips made following a track at times near impossible. If the track hadn't slid to the bottom of the hill, it was most likely covered in water ankle to knee deep or blocked by fallen trees. Bush-bashing and trailblazing (without causing damage to the surrounding vegetation) became my new past time for the next few days.
When I had the opportunity I made my way back onto the more familiar beach terrain. From Yamba to Red Cliff there were several headlands that I had to negotiate. If it wasn't for the pack this rock hopping would have been reasonably easy but with the pack on the back it was important to get every step right. One misplaced foot and I was certain to fall a few meters onto the dagger sharp rocks and crashing surf. I didn't particularly feel like getting that wet so slow and steady was the motto.The tortoise eventually made it all the way to Red Cliff and just in time for another mesmerizing sunset over the grassy plains and mobs of roos grazing.
Red Cliff to Sandon:
Repeat of the same old story... Warm clear sunny day. Waves crashing on the golden sand. Birds, bees and all the other creatures capturing my attention as I walked on to the picturesque hamlet of Sandon. I'd love to post some photos to show you but, as I said, my camera SD card has decided to pack it in so that is going to be near impossible to do. It's very disappointing to learn that I have probably lost all my pics from this part of the walk!
Sandon to Wooli:
I have stepped on or over just about every type of track, rock or sandy beach I could have imagined. One step during this section very nearly came to rest on the back of a 1.5m red belly black snake! As arduous as the pebbly beaches are to walk on I certainly prefer walking where I can see where I'm treading without the fear of being tagged by a snake.
Speaking of arduous beach walking, if I may indulge my ego and detail how difficult walking over the headlands and some beaches has been I might be able to give you a little greater appreciation for what I have experienced. From Yamba to Coffs Harbour the coastline is dotted with many headlands and rocky outcrops, most of which I have traversed. The gradient on most has been extremely steep with sharp jaggered edges. In places the rock has been laid down in almost vertical strata. Crossing these passages was a little stressful and at times scary. Sometimes I had to resort to moving on all fours just to maintain my balance. One time I had to climb up onto higher grassy ground as the rocks were impassable. At this location the ground was soaked with water and at one point my footing slipped out from beneath me and I fell a few meters towards the rocks and crashing waves below. I reached out and grabbed a thin green Banksia branch and held on until I found more solid foot and hand holds to get back up. Apart from almost standing on a snake this was the most hair raising experience I've encountered on the trip. But not to worry. All ended well and I made it through this trying time and onto the next beach. A beach with sand so soft that each foot sunk no less the 5cm into its surface. On these beaches it was virtually impossible to get any traction to push off and steps were so short it felt like I was walking in fresh deep snow.
After leaving Sandon at 5am I finally walked into the small fishing village of Wooli at 530pm (Except for a 2hr lunch break I had walked continuously for most of this time). You might ask where is Wooli? Given that it's tucked away off the main roads most people haven't heard of the town let alone know where it is. But the town is positioned on a thin stretch of sand dunes sandwiched by the ocean on one side and a river on the other. After meeting the residents of Wooli Caravan Park and sharing a story over tea and scones I promised them that I wouldn't tell you how nice a place this is. But I can't resist and have to say that Wooli has been one of the nicest little communities I have come across in my travels to date. You definitely shouldn't go there!
Wooli to Woolgoolga and on to Coffs Harbour.
This section was filled with more rocky shores, soft soft sand and a couple of creek/river crossings. I eventually made it to Woolgoolga and was fortunate enough to be provided with a night's accommodation at the Solitary Islands Lodge. A huge thankyou to Denise and John Hannaford for their support. After 5 days camping in the Yuraygir National Park in cold, wet conditions spending the night in John and Denise's luxurious BnB was just what the doctor ordered! After a rejuvenating stay in Woolgoolga I walked 30km to Coffs. This has been the longest stretch of walking I have completed so far. My back ached, the knees were sore and the feet throbbed so much it felt like they were going to explode. I was sure glad to make it to coffs for a few days rest!
Over the last 2 weeks I've built up a reasonable level of fitness and grown accustom to the weight of my pack and the aches and pains it brings with it. The increased "comfort" has allowed me more time to think about the very reason why I am walking at all. Rather than lecture you ( something I have no place in doing) about poverty I would like to put a series of questions to you. These questions I have pondered, researched and found answers to myself but I think it's vital that you establish your own answers and try to make sense of the rediculous reasons why poverty exists and the role each one of us plays.
As I take a break for the next couple of days and then get on my way to Port Macquarie I'll leave you to consider:
1. Almost half the world — over three billion people — live on less than $2.50 a day.
2. Less than one per cent of what the world spent every year on weapons was needed to put every child into school by the year 2000 and yet it didn’t happen.Source
3. For every $1 in aid a developing country receives, over $25 is spent on debt repayment.Source 22
Check out some of the following sites....food for thought.
http://www.fightpoverty.mmbrico.com/poverty/reasons.html
http://www.globalissues.org/article/26/poverty-facts-and-stats
til the next post....
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